Vogue 8280 Revisited

Vogue 8280

I made another version of the Roland Mouret Galaxy-inspired dress, Vogue 8280, this time in a green wool tweed (from TrimFabric.com, sold out unfortunately) for fall.

If you attempt this dress, I highly recommend making a muslin. I didn't do this the first time around, but I got away with it because my fabric had a bit of stretch.  Stretch fabric is best for this dress.

Demonstrating the stretch of my first version

Muslin for the tweed version with alterations I knew I needed from my first attempt:  1/4" swayback adjustment, lowered the bust darts 1/2", increased the width of the bust darts by 1/2"

The fit is pretty good above. Bust looks good. Swayback needs another 1/4" or so taken out. I don't know what is happening with the darts at the front of the skirt, but it is not good. Lengthening them an inch or so seemed to help. For the sleeves, I took out about an inch off the sleeve cap so they would be less football player-eque.

Construction details and design changes: Fully lined in rayon ambiance; substituted an invisible zipper; bodice and sleeves interfaced; eliminated the back slit; tacked down the arm flanges that stick up if you don't; lowered the neckline by 1/2"; added a pleated flounce to the bottom hem, though I can see from the pics I pulled the stitching too taught and caused some puckers. The flounce is made of the lining fabric (rayon), so the pleats are not permanent. I tried all sorts of closures to attach the flounce to the skirt (buttons, snaps), but none gave the smooth look I was after. For now it will just have to be re-sewn every time it's laundered.

Topped off with a little bow I made from a dress label; it's silk! Why hide that inside of a dress? Worn with my favorite shoes that never met a sidewalk grate they didn't jump into; a stairway they didn't nick their toes on. They're totally busted, but I cannot let them go (or find their replacement; they're circa 2001).

First version post