Jan 21, 2009

Summoning Spring - Butterick 5243

Edit: Don't make this dress in a 4-way stretch jersey like I did. Durr. Make sure your fabric is a 2-way stretch knit, just like the instructions advise. Woops.

butterick 5243 green rayon jersey dress

File this one under "wearable muslin." The dress turned out pretty good, but I made a big error in choosing the overly droopy rayon jersey to make this dress. The drape of the rayon really shines in the skirt portion and lends such wonderful movement that I cannot help but dance around in it. The upper half, though, is a little long in the boob, even after I took out about a half inch from the horizontal seam under the bust. I don't think a full bust alteration is needed for this pattern, but neckline is very low cut (my bra still shows after I overlapped an additional 5/8").

My other mistake was trying out Stitch Witchery to make a clean, threadless sleeve hem. I made a sample, which seemed fine, but the hem allowance got all bunchy when I applied it to the sleeve. Ripping out all the fusible bond left the fabric stretched out and bumpy. Curse my sewing karma; shortcuts will yield more work in the end.

This next picture reveals all evils of this dress:
-tons of tedious gathers CHECK
-annoying hand sewn facing CHECK
-sloppy sleeve hems CHECK
-sagging fabric baby around the middle CHECK


I fixed the drooping fabric by running stitches up the center of the waistband and pulling taught to secure the gathers. This would have been easier to do before the waistband overlay is sewn to the underlay.


I'm gonna try again with this one, in a beefier fabric, possibly in one size smaller than the 8 here, perhaps with a little less cleavage, and hopefully in an equally obnoxious color.

25 comments so far... Leave a comment:

  1. Though I can see the drapiness (only after you pointed it out), I still think it looks great on you. I want to make this dress and appreciate your advice to use a beefier jersey.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Obnoxious? I LOVE that color on you especially with the pink flowers in the hair. LOVE IT! I also died laughing at that saggy fabric baby comment. Glad you found the fix! Can't wait to see the next one

    ReplyDelete
  3. It's beautiful and only you would "know" it wasn't perfect. I have this one too and been wanting to make it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. cooool!

    i know that as the creator of this dress all the drawbacks to making it must really stand out--but it looks great and as a layperson i can't perceive any of the issues that you point out. looking forward to whatever you post next...

    ReplyDelete
  5. I think it looks incredible, but I know what it's like to know "the truth" about a garment.

    It has such a great 1930's feel plus the flower gives it Latin flavor. You need to dance the tango in that dress!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Actually, its great, but can see your suggestions of the heavier fabric needed. It is very vintage-like.

    ReplyDelete
  7. beautiful work! your blog is inspiring me to make a new dress for spring.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi, your sewings are great but the point is they look more beautiful on you, i mean you carry them good:) I will give a link from my blog to your blog. Will be reading your blog every day...

    ReplyDelete
  9. This looks great on you. You have really grown into a beautiful woman since the first post of you I found from a year ago. I love the color and the punchiness of the flowers in your hair. I also love the dress on you from the post below with the red shoes. Very anthro inspired looking.

    I've had 3 babies so clothes never look as expected on me. I am not grossly overweight or anything but much "hippier" and I have trouble accepting the new me even though my youngest is almost 5.

    Thank you for your inspiring blog. God bless you. (:

    ReplyDelete
  10. WOW! I LOVE what you do!

    I stumbled on your blog, and right away started adding things to my project list... You are very talented!

    And I think the dress looks great. The only thing I really noticed was the sleeves, and I've been sewing for 12 years.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Gorgeous, I love the "obnoxious color" and the drapey pleats. With the bright flower in your hair and the cool shoes you look like a movie star from the 40's.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Fantastic! I love the color. The style is very 40's Swing Dance.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi,
    just stumbled across your blog and I wanted to let you know I love your creations.

    ReplyDelete
  14. I have nominated you for an award, see it here.

    ReplyDelete
  15. you just gave me the drive to make this dress. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hi there
    Just wanted to say that I hope all is well as we haven't heard from you on your blog in a while. You are my favourite blogger with style, grace and panache. All the best Susan (Canberra, Australia)

    ReplyDelete
  17. It still looks beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  18. That is a BEAUTIFUL DRESS!!! I love the color choice as well! ;) I am looking into making this pattern, and your dress definitly confirmed that in my mind! Absouletly beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I think your version turned out great, actually - I made this pattern and it became a cat blanket (that's what I do with my sewing wadders.) It was WAY too low cut on me, even though I had cut a 10 instead of a 12 or 14. Interesting point on the 2 way stretch vs. 4 way - I also used 4 way - maaaybe I'll try this again with 2 way stretch. Also, I like the saggy fabric baby comment - this cracked me up - and the fix for it!! This pattern has such potential, as you illustrated - I really may try it again.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Love this dress, obnoxious color and all, and the whole styling and photography!

    ReplyDelete
  21. It's lovely! I have a question--what brand are your shoes? They are amazing!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Hi Sarah, my shoes are by Coclico, the style name is 'Orion.'

    ReplyDelete
  23. Thanks Kristin! Your work is inspiring and your style is great, by the way!

    ReplyDelete