Viva las Viviennes - Vogue 8385

Vogue 8385

The vest is a dead ringer for this Vivienne Westwood Anglomania 'Atlantis Sunday' top:

This must be one of her best sellers because the design has been around for several years, and it is still being made.

If you can't sew or have an extra $500, you're in luck. Antrhopologie knocked it off too:

Fabric:

-cotton/rayon plaid shirting, Hancock Fabrics (got it recently)
-green stretch cotton twill, FashionFabricsClub.com

Design changes:

Both versions:
-slightly deepened armholes (the original pattern has them too high for comfort; I traced along the next smallest size at the armhole)
-back neckline gaping fixed by removing 3/4 inch from the top and tapering to nothing at the waistline
-extra bust room by adding width to the front bodice side seam (traced a size 12 here, then tapered back to an 8). There is still some pulling at the front bustline, but I consider this minor (and still it fits as well as any of the model shots of the Vivienne Westwood originals).

Plaid:
-self-drafted peplum pattern more closely resembles designer original (though mine is symmetrical)
-changed the front angle of the peplum for more abdomen coverage

Green:
-lengthened bodice along marked pattern lines by one inch, thinking that would help cover a patch of exposed belly in the front. The extra length brought the waistline too far down in the back and now there are horizontal wrinkles from too much back length.

Likes:
-unique silhouette
-beautifully drafted
-well-written instructions make clear otherwise strange construction
-inside is completely finished, looks professional
-versatile, worn alone or over long sleeves

Dislikes:
-requires precise sewing, make sure you transfer markings accurately
-odd shaped pattern pieces make fit alterations tricky
-calls for lining in fashion fabric, but it doesn't show so you can use what you like
-exposed patch of tummy

Overall, this is a really great pattern for intermediate sewers.

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Still reading? Here are some tips and tools that were helpful for this vest:

Matching plaids from The Spadea Sewing Book:

Sewing corners (this pattern has both inward and outward corners) from Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing:

You should "blunt" any corners you want to be sharp. Seems counter intuitive, but if you don't sew a few stitches diagonally across a corner, it won't make a fine point.

Steel chisel buttonhole cutter for accurate and clean buttonholes:

Lastly, here's the peplum I drafted for a size 8. It includes 5/8 inch seam and hem allowances. Note: it is not drawn to scale: