May 28, 2010

Vogue 1161 - Rachel Comey Dress Fail

I couldn't believe my luck when the Rachel Comey patterns showed up on Vogue's site.  Rachel Comey?!  She's one of my favorite designers.

Vogue 1161

Even though I made a muslin, the dress didn't turn out so great.

Muslin in size 8 - deceptively tight!
Fit issues:  CF neckline gapes, back bodice too long, right high hip, overall one size too small.

Vogue 1161 Rachel Comey dress pattern

"Why is this a failure?" you ask.  Let's have a closer look. . .

This dress exacerbates the genetic betrayal that is my legacy.

Curse you right high hip!  Pulling up the right skirt helped the fit but shifted the alignment.  

Whatever, I can live with that.  Let's see the back. . .

I call it 'Wrinklestiltskin'

Oh noes!  Bodice back still. too. long.  And jeez, I thought twill weaves, lightweight silk twill in this instance, were supposed to resist wrinkles.  Kinda wish I hadn't spent time dyeing the fabric (sapphire blue here).

Notes for brave souls who attempt this pattern:

Runs a bit small: my infallible 8 was too small; blue is a 10 and fits relatively well.
Front neckline gaped:  I pinched out 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the center front.
FBA not necessary:  although the unstitched darts aren't my favorite look.
Lining should match fabric:  lining shows a little where the knot is tied in the back.
It's short:  I added 3 inches (7.6 cm) and substituted a rolled hem, and the dress just hits the top of my knees (I'm 5'7" [170 cm]).
Beware back bodice length:  it seemed a little excessive on this pattern.

Look how this thing moves, though:


video

Certainly, this is a great dress for dancing if you can work out the fit issues.  Maybe try it in a print, which helps disguise fit wrinkles.  See?


Photo: gargyle.com

Photo: creaturesofcomfort.us

29 comments so far... Leave a comment:

  1. After seeing your initial post and muslin, I cut a size larger and used the fashion fabric for both sides of the back knot piece. The bodice layers are all pinned together and waiting for me to get back on task, so I'll keep you posted. The sapphire blue is gorgeous on you, and yes, this dress can move! Don't beat yourself up too badly, this is still a beautiful dress and you look gorgeous in it!

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  2. I hope you go for another try, Kristin. It's really pretty!

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  3. Kristine, I hope my advice rings true for you, I would hate to steer you wrong!

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  4. Firstly, I am always so pleased when your blog pops up in my reader with a new posting. What about a crepe? Unless crepe gives you the creeps. It might be a little more forgiving and still very fluid in the drape. These fitted styles suit you so well.

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  5. You should feel great about this dress! Apparently, the design is the problem because you can clearly see the problems in the dress at the bottom of your post. The back bodice is even too long in that dress and they could have pinned that one up for the photo shoot. Why they didn't, is another story. I think your dress is lovely!

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  6. That colour looks wonderful on you. It's such a shame that the fit isn't perfect, but on the other hand, you still look fabulous in it.

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  7. It's a beautiful color on you! It looks great in the front - the high hip is not noticeable to me! I think Isaspacey is right - the commercial dress has the same issues with a long bodice etc. Even so, it is totally cute on you - don't be discouraged, wear it with pride!

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  8. This is not a fail, you look stunning in it, forget the tiny issues that no one else will notice and enjoy wearing it.

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  9. This is most definitely not a fail. This is a smidge short of perfect....and who can ever buy a perfect fit? Nobody else will notice the tiny flaws and in a day or two you won't either. have fun dancing in it!

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  10. It's a beauty! I wonder if the issued would be more manageable or less noticeable with a fabric with a tiny bit of stretch...

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  11. I don't think it's a fail -- possibly a fail for the way that you want it to fit but I think that you recreated the retail version of the dress very well. In the purple version (bottom set of photos) it looks like the back bodice is indeed on the long side and loose on the model. Her dress is bunchy on her back hip and the back bodice is loose above the waist.

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  12. I think your dress is BEAUTIFUL!!! I have that pattern and want to make it in a white linen blend. I usually don't make muslins (bad habit of mine) but I definitely will on this dress. Thanks so much for your review.

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  13. You of all people could make this pattern work, and I think you did! You're right that the print is great at disguising the wrinkles, but then you can't see the seams quite as well, so it's a tossup.

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  14. I also get excited about your posts!! Attention to detail is beautiful and I think even in a potato sack you'd look great. By the by--Vogue reissued the OFP vest recently and I think it was because so many people requested it after your award winning version.

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  15. The dress is fine! It looks gorgeous and the color is great. As for the back bodice, would restitching the shoulder seams to lift up the back bodice resolve the gaping?

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  16. Have you considered making this dress in a stretch jersey? It might avoid the wrinkling rear.

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  17. Stunning dress! Obviously, it was designed (or poorly designed) to be "floppy" in the back, as shown in the two commercial shots. You always do a beautiful job, and this is no exception. Gorgeous color BTW.

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  18. Well, I think it´s beautiful. Not a fail at all.

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  19. Maybe changing the fabric?
    My daughter also have a hip like yours (she has scoliosis) but I always tell her: If you like it you can wear it! It is my first visit here and let me tell you: I love your blog and your clothing!

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  20. this reminded me of your winning maxi dress, except yours is EVEN MORE AWESOME:
    http://i.huffpost.com/gadgets/slideshows/7372/slide_7372_97515_large.jpg?1276036540976

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  21. oops that didn't really work. anyway it's a pic of gwyneth paltrow jocking your style last night at the CFDA awards.

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  22. You are right on about the print, it takes out the flow issues. Also, notice how the busy, yet uniform mottle of the patterned fabric nicely contrasts with the gentleness of the open skin, bringing its warmth and fluidity forward.

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  23. I'm soo sorry for the fit issues, because it looks fabulous on you. I like it even more then the original. Maybe you will give it another try?!

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  24. Thanks for the heads up... as the owner of an incredibly long torso, the back length might just work for me.

    BTW, I think that blue looks smashing on you!

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  25. Appreciate your analysis as I had just chosen this pattern for a print silk.
    Hmmm. may have to rethink. I agree - the wrinkles would put it in the
    can't wear this category for me. Great color, the top half looks good.
    did you raise the skirt all around? or just suggesting for the back?

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  26. Beth- I removed about an inch from the back bodice length only (remove from waist seam at center back, then taper to nothing at side seams).

    In the front, I just lifted the right side where my hip is high.

    Part of the problem, I think, is the design of the keyhole cutout; it seems to want to sag a little regardless of the body in it. Perhaps though the problem is unique to my figure.

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  27. When first I saw this pattern, I was scared off by the many pieces, which would be a beast for me to alter. It has been helpful to see your result--which is gorgeous, BTW.

    Back length: maybe if the fit pattern back was opened at the diagonal seamline between keyhole shoulder piece and back body, that lower back piece could be smoothed out and shifted up, and the keyhole piece flattened down to remove excess length. I am guessing that might reduce the apparent center back length, and pull down and smooth out the keyhole gap.
    (thanks for sharing this project, I am more willing to take a crack at it now that you have led the way)

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  28. I just bought this for my daughter! I was planning to whip it up as a surprise for her birthday Saturday (4 days!). I'm SOO glad I found this post. Your comments make me a little nervous but glad I saw them before I started. By the way, I think the dress is fabulous on you. Until you pointed out the hip issues, I didn't notice. And even so, it still looks great

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  29. I don't know if I'd count this as a fail. It is so lovely on you. You are talented!

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