Very Prairie

Pattern Magic Bow Dress

2010-09-16T18:26:00.001-05:00

I made a dress based on this design from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, my unused-until-now favorite sewing book.

The bow is formed by tying together two draped loops, which are extensions of the collar and bodice.

I like how the bow is not a a separate accent but actually part of the dress.

The fabric is 100% linen from Dharma Trading (buy here), dyed in this odd shade of green. It's rather Slimer-esque, isn't it?

I spent time perfecting the dye recipe before committing the whole yardage to color. My masterpiece contains iDye in chartreuse and Dharma Procion Fiber Reactive dye in avocado and olive drab at a ratio of 6:6:1 respectively.

Secret-of-the-ooze green is not a common zipper color, so I painted the zipper pull of the closest match with acrylic craft paint.

Finishing techniques are up to you. In the book, raw edges are turned under once and stitched.

I fully lined this dress with Ambiance rayon in kiwi, which is attached at the armholes and back of the neck; the front bodice lining, cut from the unaltered basic bodice pattern, hangs free from the bow.

The skirt is a swingy half-circle. I used the excellent instructions in Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong.

My one regret is underlining the bodice in silk organza; the extra body and stiffness make the bow difficult to tie.

Despite the Japanese text, with focused study, you can figure out from the diagrams how to alter a basic bodice to create your own magic.

If focused study sounds tedious, the English version of Pattern Magic will be released on October 6, 2010 (pre-order here). The second book, More Pattern Magic, follows on January 19, 2011 (pre-order here).

Vogue 1153 - Anna Sui Dress

2010-07-01T19:21:00.007-05:00

I used this Anna Sui pattern, Vogue 1153, from her Resort 2009 collection:

Polka dots, ruffles, and a bow tie - sometimes you have to just go for it, ya know?

This dress is fairly simple to sew and fit, save for the copious amounts of gathering and hemming.

I made my usual size 8. No fit alterations - thank you jeebus!

My notes:

This dress is short. Notice how you can see good amounts of the model's thighs but no knees? It's a true mini dress. I added 4.5" to the length, and it's still a couple ruler widths away from my knees. And at 5'7," I'm about average height.
Get comfortable with gathering. There's a lot of it in this pattern. There are even gathers behind the skirt ruffle that you can't see.
Rolled hemming is practically a necessity. Yards and yards (and yards!) of hems are too tedious to sew without a serger.

Edited to add: I used cobalt blue wooly nylon thread in the upper and lower loopers of my machine (that's the two right-most threads) to make the edges stand out and for a nice smooth finish. I used regular cotton thread in the needle. Wooly nylon is a springy, thick thread that seals and wraps fabric edges better than regular thread. I purchased mine from my local JoAnn fabrics.

The fabric is an airy silk/cotton voile from Manhattan Fabrics (no longer available, unfortunately).

Here's what Chaiken, the fabric designer, originally used the fabric for:

Photo: bluefly.com

I'm pretty happy with my dress. It's slighly saccharine but perfect for summer. I'll have my cupcake and look like one too.

Vogue 1161 - Rachel Comey Dress Fail

2010-05-28T20:36:00.004-05:00

I couldn't believe my luck when the Rachel Comey patterns showed up on Vogue's site. Rachel Comey?! She's one of my favorite designers.

Vogue 1161

Even though I made a muslin, the dress didn't turn out so great.

Muslin in size 8 - deceptively tight!
Fit issues: CF neckline gapes, back bodice too long, right high hip, overall one size too small.

"Why is this a failure?" you ask. Let's have a closer look. . .

This dress exacerbates the genetic betrayal that is my legacy.

Curse you right high hip! Pulling up the right skirt helped the fit but shifted the alignment.

Whatever, I can live with that. Let's see the back. . .

I call it 'Wrinklestiltskin'

Oh noes! Bodice back still. too. long. And jeez, I thought twill weaves, lightweight silk twill in this instance, were supposed to resist wrinkles. Kinda wish I hadn't spent time dyeing the fabric (sapphire blue here).

Notes for brave souls who attempt this pattern:

* Runs a bit small: my infallible 8 was too small; blue is a 10 and fits relatively well.
* Front neckline gaped: I pinched out 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the center front.
* FBA not necessary: although the unstitched darts aren't my favorite look.
* Lining should match fabric: lining shows a little where the knot is tied in the back.
* It's short: I added 3 inches (7.6 cm) and substituted a rolled hem, and the dress just hits the top of my knees (I'm 5'7" [170 cm]).
* Beware back bodice length: it seemed a little excessive on this pattern.

Look how this thing moves, though:

Certainly, this is a great dress for dancing if you can work out the fit issues. Maybe try it in a print, which helps disguise fit wrinkles. See?

Photo: gargyle.com

Photo: creaturesofcomfort.us

Review - Threads Industry Insider Techniques DVDs

2010-02-26T19:05:00.010-06:00

Trisha asked my opinion of the Threads DVDs I won, so here goes...

The DVDs come in 2 volumes and retail for $30 each. Kinda pricey, but the lessons contained within are excellent. I have not seen these methods anywhere else. They are appropriate for all experience levels.

The format is like a sewing class, with Louise Cutting of Cutting Line Designs as teacher and Threads editor Judith Neukam as student. Judy asks clarifying questions throughout the DVD that I find very helpful.

Louise is an excellent teacher and natural speaker. The camera shots are clear and give close detail to see what she is doing. There is an in interview in the beginning of Vol. 1 that is a bit stiff and long (ahem, that's what she said), which seems to be a universal trait of Threads DVDs.

The techniques themselves are a product of Louise's observations of designer RTW (ready-to-wear) garments, couture workroom methods, and personal experimentation. She adapts these into techniques appropriate for home sewists, pointing out where her ways differ from what couturiers/professionals do. These aren't strictly 'this is what we do in the garment industry' techniques. All of the methods yield professional results and are easy (often quick) to replicate.

Louise points out errors that home sewists make and how to correct them. She also demonstrates the proper use of commonly misused tools (point turners used as point pokers, for example).

Here is a breakdown of what is on each disc:

Volume One

Bulk-free facings
Drafting and sewing a perfect collar (eliminates bulk and seams at the edges)
Interfaced hem with no visible stitching for skirts and pants
Thread-weighted hem for sheer fabric
Mitered asymmetrical corners (when the hem allowance isn't the same on both edges)
Support for smooth darts
Quick serged french seams

Volume Two

Bias bound edges as a replacement for facings
Grading and clipping curved edges for smooth necklines and armholes (this section is invaluable; I use it in every garment I sew now)
Padstitching jacket lapels by machine to build shape
Sharp inset corners (freaking genius shortcut to the terribly difficult task of sewing an inside corner to an outside corner)
Weightless pocket flaps

For the most part, specialized equipment is not necessary. Besides a sewing machine and iron, she uses:

serger
point presser
tailor's ham
point turner
fusible tapes (supplier mentioned)
steam-a-seam
edgestitch foot (shown in Vol. 1 but not discussed until Vol. 2)

I have not been able to find the specific edgestitch foot she uses (not the kind with the ice skate blade in the middle). This one has two toes as shown above: a high toe on the left and a low toe on the right; you abut the fabric edge against the right lower toe. Suggestions welcome! It's a Viking blind hem foot (big thanks to Belinda of Sew4Fun). Unfortunately, I think it's only available for Husqvarna Viking machines.

I enthusiastically recommend these videos! There is a good mix of techniques for garment specific tasks (e.g. jacket lapel shaping) and everyday sewing (e.g. no stitch hems).

Try before you buy option: check your local library for these DVDs. You may be able to request them from another library if yours doesn't have them.

Rebecca Taylor Transformed - Vogue 1152

2010-02-21T16:29:00.015-06:00

I made Vogue 1152, a Rebecca Taylor dress pattern, as a top instead.

I shortened the hem to 8 inches below the waistline, which is conveniently marked on the pattern.

The back has elastic channels that echo the front bands and add some fit forgiveness.

It turned out pretty good. I made this from a 42 inch square piece of silk crepe fabric, which meant I had to get creative with cutting and piecing.

I really like the sculptural shape of this pattern and the little details. Some of those details are annoyingly time-consuming to sew, though. There's lots of gathering, hand stitching of facings, and piping. Sewing this in a non-slippery fabric (a bit of cotton is heaven) would surely have been a wiser move.

My dislikes about this pattern can mostly be attributed to operator error: the front bands with piping got a bit wavy (I had to piece scraps together to make them); something is off about the bustline (the princess seams do not fit my bust contours properly, or maybe it is the combination of gathers right next to the overbust seam). Big sleeves are perhaps an ill-advised pairing with a full bust.

Despite my errors, I still like and will wear this top. Probably will try it again too. The designer looks so damn good in it!

Rebeca Taylor's dress above looks to me like a cotton/silk blend, not sure of the weave. The lower right version looks like matte jersey, one of the recommended fabrics for this pattern.

Watch out for the low neckline if you make this. The top of my bra peeks out without a cami underneath. I made my usual size 8 and found it fits true to size.

(eta: the designer did make a blouse version with some minor changes [no piping or neckline facing, shorter sleeves]- very pretty. For sale at nordstrom.com.)

Twinkle Sews - Next Big Thing Dress

2010-02-19T19:57:00.011-06:00

I made the 'Next Big Thing Dress' from the book Twinkle Sews by Wenlan Chia.

It's from her spring 2008 collection.

After finishing the dress, I decided the elasto-waist must go (shortened front waistband by 2 inches to accommodate this change).

Added 2 inches to the hem and left it loose (not bubbled as in pattern). My cheat for a full bust alteration was to add 1 inch to the length of the bodice. The little knots in the neckline will not stay centered unless they are tacked down, FYI.

Fabric is 'rich green' silk crepe de chine from NYFashionCenterFabrics.com; lining is Ambiance rayon in 'kiwi.'

(before waist elastic was removed)

The author warns against this project if you are a beginner, and I would definitely agree. The underarm gussets are deceivingly tricky to sew. The sleeves are cut on the bias and get a bit floppy without stabilization (ask me how I know!).

I really like this book; the styles are cool, the instructions are clear (just words, no illustrations), but I had some challenges:

Sizing: This is a size 4. Keep in mind, the book's size chart roughly corresponds to the the finished garment measurements, NOT your body measurements. To figure your size, add a couple inches of ease to your body measurements, then select the size based on this number. The only way to know this information is if you read the accompanying paragraphs of text on the page with the size chart, which I did not do ( I chose a size 4, though I should be a 6). Luckily, this is not a very form fitting pattern.

Printing: The patterns in the book come on a CD in Adobe .pdf and Illustrator formats to print out at home on regular office paper (or at a copy shop on large paper). The patterns range from 0-16, which is great, but only every other size is included. If you are a 6, for example, you will need to print out sizes 4 and 8, then overlay them to trace off the right size. That's a lot of paper (49*2 = 98 pages for this dress alone).

Also, the individual pages have match marks in each corner to aid in assembly after printing. I, however, could not get the .pdf file to print correctly, so the pages had only one or two corners having match marks. I even downloaded a free trial of Illustrator to try to get the other file type to print properly to no avail. I ended up opening the .pdf pages individually in Photoshop, copied and pasted them together, then printed them with a border that I set the dimensions of. To boot, there is no test square as there is with BurdaStyle printable patterns to make sure you have printed at the correct scale. I made my own test square in Photoshop before printing.

To sum up, printing the patterns from this book is a real fun-killer.

I really like these other projects from the book though:

I like how the projects are styled with other Twinkle by Wenlan pieces (jewelry, scarves, and RTW):

The garments with sleeves all have raglan, dropped shoulders, making them easier to fit and sew than traditional set-in sleeves. Some of the garments are not suitable for a large bust, like that green/white tank above (the author suggests a tank underneath), but you could take the ideas and details presented and adapt them to a different pattern.

All-in-all, I think this is a great book, especially for fans of Chia's RTW line, Twinkle by Wenlan. I have tremendous respect for designers that share their designs with home sewers. Thank you Wenlan!

One Fabric, Two Ways

2010-02-19T18:52:00.007-06:00

I love when there is enough leftover fabric from a completed project to make a new one. It sort of feels like free fabric. After making a dress from the book Twinkle Sews, I squeezed this top, Vogue 1152, out of the remaining yardage. Both are silk crepe de chine in 'rich green' from NYFashionCenterFabrics.com.

Details to follow...

Happy Dance

2010-01-29T00:45:00.002-06:00

Way back in 2009 I won SewStylish's Fall Fashion Challenge (by the skin of my teeth- 20 votes out of 2000 separated 1st and 2nd place!). The prizes were a Babylock A-line sewing and embroidery machine, an Ottlite lamp, and Threads sewing DVDs. I have been having fun with all of these and I want to thank YOU for helping me get them. The contest was extremely close, and each and every one of your votes helped me win it. Thank you!

Here's the first project I made with my new machine (which, by the way, is awesome; automatic thread-cutting, what?! Futuristic touch screen, uh huh.) - a simple wholecloth lap quilt. It's like a dress for my couch!

Mr. Prairie makes an appearance. And next to him under the quilt is my boyfriend. Ba dum ching!

I'm new to quilting, but it turned out great. I used the excellent quilt instructions from Last-Minute Patchwork + Quilted Gifts. I stitched around the larger flowers with a walking foot and the smaller background leaves with a free-motion quilting foot. Binding is stitched invisibly by hand. Quilt fabric is Heather Bailey Pop Garden Rose Bouquet in cream; backing fabric is Amy Butler blue cotton quilting solid.

Did I mention I'm having fun with my prizes? Sneaking up on people and big eyeing 'em with the giant magnifying glass that came with my lamp is strangely satisfying.

Vivienne vest part deux

2009-09-24T16:38:00.013-05:00

I entered this vest in CraftStylish's Fall Fashion Challenge for designer-inspired autumn garments and am thrilled to be chosen as a finalist! Check out all the entries and vote for your favorite (extra awesome if it happens to be mine, but there is stiff competition).

Vogue 8385

I know, lowly contest monger here. I innocently happened across the contest and couldn't help but enter. Really, how could I not? :)

I was asked about the top of the vest, which wasn't clear from the photos. There aren't cups in the vest as it appears, rather there are folds of fabric at the top.

It's unlike anything I've ever sewn, but really cool, and, hopefully, flattering to wear.

Original post with more details is here.

Viva las Viviennes - Vogue 8385

2009-09-03T01:46:00.049-05:00

Vogue 8385

The vest is a dead ringer for this Vivienne Westwood Anglomania 'Atlantis Sunday' top:

This must be one of her best sellers because the design has been around for several years, and it is still being made.

If you can't sew or have an extra $500, you're in luck. Antrhopologie knocked it off too:

Fabric:

-cotton/rayon plaid shirting, Hancock Fabrics (got it recently)
-green stretch cotton twill, FashionFabricsClub.com

Design changes:

Both versions:
-slightly deepened armholes (the original pattern has them too high for comfort; I traced along the next smallest size at the armhole)
-back neckline gaping fixed by removing 3/4 inch from the top and tapering to nothing at the waistline
-extra bust room by adding width to the front bodice side seam (traced a size 12 here, then tapered back to an 8). There is still some pulling at the front bustline, but I consider this minor (and still it fits as well as any of the model shots of the Vivienne Westwood originals).

Plaid:
-self-drafted peplum pattern more closely resembles designer original (though mine is symmetrical)
-changed the front angle of the peplum for more abdomen coverage

Green:
-lengthened bodice along marked pattern lines by one inch, thinking that would help cover a patch of exposed belly in the front. The extra length brought the waistline too far down in the back and now there are horizontal wrinkles from too much back length.

Likes:
-unique silhouette
-beautifully drafted
-well-written instructions make clear otherwise strange construction
-inside is completely finished, looks professional
-versatile, worn alone or over long sleeves

Dislikes:
-requires precise sewing, make sure you transfer markings accurately
-odd shaped pattern pieces make fit alterations tricky
-calls for lining in fashion fabric, but it doesn't show so you can use what you like
-exposed patch of tummy

Overall, this is a really great pattern for intermediate sewers.

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Still reading? Here are some tips and tools that were helpful for this vest:

Matching plaids from The Spadea Sewing Book:

Sewing corners (this pattern has both inward and outward corners) from Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing:

You should "blunt" any corners you want to be sharp. Seems counter intuitive, but if you don't sew a few stitches diagonally across a corner, it won't make a fine point.

Steel chisel buttonhole cutter for accurate and clean buttonholes:

Lastly, here's the peplum I drafted for a size 8. It includes 5/8 inch seam and hem allowances. Note: it is not drawn to scale:

How to Clone Yourself in Photos

2009-07-27T20:01:00.005-05:00

Recently I started posting images like this, and you might be wondering how you can do it:

Besides a digital camera, you will need a tripod and photo editing software. I use Adobe Photoshop, but you can also use a free online photo editor, such as Pixlr.

Take your images with the tripod as stable as you can make it (tighten all the knobs and try not to move it when pressing the shutter). Remember, the only thing that changes between images should be you. My camera has a flip around screen that helps me judge where I am in the frame. You can also use reference points to make sure you don't step outside the photo frame (I used my radiator and lamp in the top photo, for example).

There are two different editing approaches, depending on your skill level:

Easy method: As long as your body doesn't overlap in any of the photos, make a box around yourself in the second image with the marquee/dashed box tool, copy, then paste it into the first image. Move this pasted portion around until the background lines up seamlessly. I like to zoom in on one area when lining up the images and make fine movements with the arrows on my keyboard. I used this method for the brick wall image above. It was quick, but you can see the seams on the cement at the bottom.

More accurate method: If your body overlaps (or you have shadows, etc.), you can use this tutorial. It will be time consuming if you aren't familiar with the features of Photoshop. If you are confused, google it; there are a lot of Photoshop instructions and tutorials on the web. This is the method that I used in the top photo.

Good luck!

Long Time, Long Dress

2009-07-27T19:23:00.016-05:00

I entered this strapless knit dress in Pattern Review's My Pattern contest last month, and I won second place!

And wow, did I need to make a giant picture so that it would dwarf the other contest winners in the announcement on PR? Who me? Also, the woman who won made a dress from Moulin Rouge and it was her FIRST time drafting a pattern. Isn't that incredible?

This caught me by surprise. The dress is a really simple garment (which I referred to as 'pattern drafting lite'). All of the construction details are in the more-detailed review. It is essentially a long strapless tube dress with two side ties that can be draped myriad ways.

I shortened it a bit since these pics so I could wear it with flats:

I am super thrilled about this honor! The prize is a suite of pattern drafting software from Wild Ginger, which I can't wait to use.

Thank you to everyone who voted for me, I am so so so grateful!

ETA: I saw this Free People tunic and thought the way the strap attaches would be cool for a tube dress:

Muslin Parade

2009-05-21T23:31:00.025-05:00

Despite my hiatus, I have actually been sewing. As you can see, I never made it out of the muslin stage with any of these projects.

Left to right: Burda 7944 (too tight), same one size larger (too unflattering from behind), Hot Patterns sailor pants (wowzer too short in the crotch), Burda WoF 5/2008-119 moto jacket.

I actually like the moto jacket. The fit is pretty good, but I'll narrow the sleeves in the next muslin. Probably will move the pockets too.

While I was cutting the above jacket out, my boyfriend remarked how much he liked the fabrics. "Really?" I thought. When I finished the muslin and he saw me trying it on, he said, "Oh, I thought you were making me a shirt. Those fabrics are so ugly." Ha. Good to know I can count on his ~honest opinion~.

This next one is Vogue 8385 (out of print), a dead ringer for a Vivienne Westwood design.

My dislikes: flattens my chest uncomfortably, the armhole is very high, and there is a little patch of stomach exposed.

Above is my second effort, inside out, so you can see how the top could be made with a kind of collar instead of the tucking. I made some creative alterations to the pattern which I thought would yield more room in the bust- not so. The pattern pieces are weird looking and the construction is very unusual, and I can't figure out how to do a full bust alteration. I'm currently working on my third try of this one.

Lastly, I am now in possession of Patrones Extra #268 (via eBay). Look at this Christian Lacroix dress from spring 2007:

It is so freaking gorgeous.

This is the muslin without the ruffles. I loathe the top part and already drafted something else for it. The outer dots are the bust points on the pattern; the blue dots are my actual bust point. Yeah, not really happening.

My final version will be in a deep purple silk twill, but not for a while because the Spanish instructions are currently sucking my will to live. Those ruffles are a bit trickier than they appear.

Next post will have a wearable garment in it, pinky swear. And hopefully sooner than 5 months from now :)

Summoning Spring - Butterick 5243

2009-01-21T15:24:00.021-06:00

Edit: Don't make this dress in a 4-way stretch jersey like I did. Durr. Make sure your fabric is a 2-way stretch knit, just like the instructions advise. Woops.

File this one under "wearable muslin." The dress turned out pretty good, but I made a big error in choosing the overly droopy rayon jersey to make this dress. The drape of the rayon really shines in the skirt portion and lends such wonderful movement that I cannot help but dance around in it. The upper half, though, is a little long in the boob, even after I took out about a half inch from the horizontal seam under the bust. I don't think a full bust alteration is needed for this pattern, but neckline is very low cut (my bra still shows after I overlapped an additional 5/8").

My other mistake was trying out Stitch Witchery to make a clean, threadless sleeve hem. I made a sample, which seemed fine, but the hem allowance got all bunchy when I applied it to the sleeve. Ripping out all the fusible bond left the fabric stretched out and bumpy. Curse my sewing karma; shortcuts will yield more work in the end.

This next picture reveals all evils of this dress:
-tons of tedious gathers CHECK
-annoying hand sewn facing CHECK
-sloppy sleeve hems CHECK
-sagging fabric baby around the middle CHECK

I fixed the drooping fabric by running stitches up the center of the waistband and pulling taught to secure the gathers. This would have been easier to do before the waistband overlay is sewn to the underlay.

I'm gonna try again with this one, in a beefier fabric, possibly in one size smaller than the 8 here, perhaps with a little less cleavage, and hopefully in an equally obnoxious color.

McQueen for You and Me

2009-01-19T16:14:00.010-06:00

There is a lovely McQ by Alexander McQueen kimono jacket at ShopBop right now for $339:

Image: shopbop.com

The seemingly same pattern is available as a free download from ShowStudio. Check out the gallery for photos of user creations.

Image: showstudio.com

Adding this to my exceedingly long list of things I'd like to sew.

Almost Sick of It - Simplicity 3835 Take 4

2009-01-06T15:40:00.016-06:00

Another one for my sister, she picked out the crazy cool fabric: "Echino Leopard Grape" by Etsuko Furuya, a cotton/linen blend soft canvas.

Print-matching skillz! Took an extra 1/8" yard to cut two matching pieces. Used an invisible zip in the center back seam, looks nicer in my opinion.

Bias faced hem

I faced the hem with a bias strip of self fabric because, though I added 1" to the hem, it was still super short. This way, I only lost 1/4" from the hem by sewing on the facing. The result is invisible, and the hem falls really nicely.

Lined with Ambiance Bemberg rayon

Lining Tip: intuitively, something that fits inside something else should be slightly smaller. Not so for lining a garment; since lining fabrics don't have much give, the lining should be slightly larger to accommodate movement. Cut the lining the same as the garment, then sew the lining with a slightly narrower seam allowance (1/2" instead of 5/8").

Leopard patch inside back lining

My first version for comparison (post here)

Easy Gift: Haircut Hat

2008-12-12T15:36:00.020-06:00

I really wanted to make this felt haircut hat from the great book Saturday Night Hat by Eugenia Kim, but I didn't want to invest in a hat block and millinery supplies. Instead, I improvised with fleece and another pattern from the book.

Mine isn't as nice, but for the cost of 1/4 yard of fleece and less than one hour, it's pretty good.

Construction details:

I used the classic cloche pattern on page 138; reduce the pattern by 5% from the target size if the recipient has no hair. I eliminated the side bottom flares from the pattern and added 2" to the bottom length. The pictures immediately below show my first version, where I included the flares in the back and only added 1" to the length. I found that it works better to have the additional length so that the "hair" extends across the cheeks, and the flares are unnecessary once the face is cut out and that tension is released.

The hat is assembled from 6 wedge pieces by sewing three and three together, then uniting the two halves. Leave the bottom 3" on each side open when you sew this seam so the hat will fit over your face without suffocating you. *VERY IMPORTANT*: before pulling this thing over your face, remove all makeup, especially mascara, which will rub all over your face, unless you enjoy raccoon chic.

Next, use an erasable fabric marker to mark a reference point above the arch of your brow. Take the hat off and cut up to this point so you can see. Now just get your scissors and start cutting and trying on, using the book as a reference if you like.

Coming along, taking shape. Finish sewing the side seams and trim down the seam allowances.

Finished! Admire your work, pack it up, and enjoy the smiles and laughs it brings.

The recipient really liked it and asked for another one.

I highly recommend this book. Though some of the projects are only embellishments of already made hats, the creativity and originality of the book is incredible. And there are patterns for hats! Even if you wouldn't wear a Hello Kitty cocktail hat (or a cake, sushi, or toast cocktail hat, which are also included), you could take the idea and turn it into a flower or cover it in feathers. It's all about having fun.

Baby Gift - Colorwheel Quilt

2008-10-20T20:35:00.026-05:00

Fifty-two different colored fabrics in all. Can you imagine shopping for these? I made the Leaning Tower of Pisa out of fabric bolts, and then became best friends with the poor woman who had to cut them all (only about 5 inches of each).

The quilting made a beautiful pattern on the back. Unfortunately, my stitching got really sloppy in the center, so I appliqued a circle in the same fabric to hide the offending area.

The center of the quilt got really hard with all of the stitching, which was strange.

These are my favorite fabrics on the quilt: stencil carnation by Kaffe Kassett from purlsoho. I like purlsoho especially since their minimum fabric cut is 1/4 yard, whereas most online fabric shops are 1/2 yard.

I stitched the binding by hand, which is the single most time-consuming part of this quilt. You can do it by machine, but then the stitching is visible.


Happy and surprised mom of unborn recipient

This project is from Last-Minute Patchwork + Quilted Gifts by Joelle Hoverson. It is a joy to make from start to finish. This is my first real quilt (I made two patchwork quilts previously but knotted, rather than quilted, them), which is a testament to the ease of this project. Really, it looks more difficult than it is. It is assembled in quadrants, so the joining of circles and curved seams is minimal.

Every project in this book is inspiring. The photographs are beautiful, and the instructions clear. I highly recommend it!

Vogue 8280 Revisited

2008-10-18T15:14:00.014-05:00

Vogue 8280

I made another version of the Roland Mouret Galaxy-inspired dress, Vogue 8280, this time in a green wool tweed (from TrimFabric.com, sold out unfortunately) for fall.

If you attempt this dress, I highly recommend making a muslin. I didn't do this the first time around, but I got away with it because my fabric had a bit of stretch. Stretch fabric is best for this dress.

Demonstrating the stretch of my first version

Muslin for the tweed version with alterations I knew I needed from my first attempt: 1/4" swayback adjustment, lowered the bust darts 1/2", increased the width of the bust darts by 1/2"

The fit is pretty good above. Bust looks good. Swayback needs another 1/4" or so taken out. I don't know what is happening with the darts at the front of the skirt, but it is not good. Lengthening them an inch or so seemed to help. For the sleeves, I took out about an inch off the sleeve cap so they would be less football player-eque.

Construction details and design changes: Fully lined in rayon ambiance; substituted an invisible zipper; bodice and sleeves interfaced; eliminated the back slit; tacked down the arm flanges that stick up if you don't; lowered the neckline by 1/2"; added a pleated flounce to the bottom hem, though I can see from the pics I pulled the stitching too taught and caused some puckers. The flounce is made of the lining fabric (rayon), so the pleats are not permanent. I tried all sorts of closures to attach the flounce to the skirt (buttons, snaps), but none gave the smooth look I was after. For now it will just have to be re-sewn every time it's laundered.

Topped off with a little bow I made from a dress label; it's silk! Why hide that inside of a dress? Worn with my favorite shoes that never met a sidewalk grate they didn't jump into; a stairway they didn't nick their toes on. They're totally busted, but I cannot let them go (or find their replacement; they're circa 2001).

First version post

Guy Laroche Perfection

2008-10-02T01:18:00.013-05:00

Vogue's winter/holiday '08 pattern collection is just out, and, GASP, this dress is amazing!

Vogue 1078 by Guy Laroche

I recognized it immediately from inspiration photos saved on my computer. This one is from the fall 2007 collection:

Photo: imaxtree.com

Hmmm, it is an advanced designer pattern, but I feel like I should try it. Hmmm, seven yards of jersey... I would like to do something different in the back to accommodate a bra and maybe something more practical than a train. Hmmm...where to buy emerald green matte jersey?

So nice I made it twice - Butterick 5130

2008-09-30T20:48:00.021-05:00

This is long overdue, but I won second place in the Pattern Review's One Fabric - KNITS contest! I am so thrilled and happy to have won this prize, a gift certificate to lucysfabrics.com, which I used to buy several yards of buttery soft black modal jersey.

So, with that vote of confidence and encouragement, I made another version of Butterick 5130, this time in gray midweight rayon jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Same process as the first one, but this time I didn't need a double layer of fabric.

Since jersey/knits travel well (don't wrinkle too much, are comfortable, etc.), I took both dresses with me on my fabulous trip to Beijing! For the Olympics! Let's just say, people really loved my dress:

Actually, it was the blond hair. Chinese people LOVE blond hair. Everywhere I went, I was mobbed for photos, stared at, and asked where I was from. It was hilarious. Most of the time, I was gross and sweaty (it was very humid and hot there), but people still would come up and smile, and those who spoke English complimented me immensely. It was weird and fun.

Beijing is an amazing and beautiful city. The people are incredible, very friendly, and helpful. Most were extremely welcoming, which I hadn't anticipated. I ate amazing food, the stangest probably being clear seaweed (texture like jello, taste like mild cucumber). Here are some photos (more on my flickr):

Built by You Tie Sleeve Dress Again

2008-09-15T17:25:00.007-05:00

I've made three of these dresses, but have only shown one here. This was the first one I made, a gift for my sister. I liked it so much, I made one for myself in the same fabric. My sister says she really likes the dress, and she looks spectacular in it! I stole these pictures from her to prove it.

Simplicity 3835 pattern info
Original post about this dress
Fabric is Amy Butler Belle in pine/coriander
Boots by El Naturalista

Ruffle Neck Blouse - Burda WOF 7/2007

2008-09-08T14:59:00.008-05:00

I made this Burda World of Fashion blouse some time ago, but only recently got around to photographing it; I try to avoid as much as possible the self-timer/re-check-each-photo hell that dominates my photo-taking sessions. Curiously, I have a sister who is a skilled photographer and has great equipment, but she is on the other side of the country. :(

Anyway, I *think* this blouse was a medium level difficulty; the sewing is straightforward but I had to re-read and let simmer the instructions for the collar. Added 1" to the length at the bottom (no other changes), made a straight 36 out of cotton textured shirting from JoAnn Fabrics. Added silver beads to the tie ends.

Perhaps not the most flattering silhouette, but the collar is certainly distinctive and eye-catching. I think lighter weight fabric (and maybe a bit sheer) would make this blouse more flattering.

Butterick 5130 - Gathered Knit Dress

2008-08-01T00:28:00.020-05:00

Butterick 5130

I was inspired by Bottega Veneta's Spring 2007 collection, particularly the lovely gathered knits in muted tones, when I saw this pattern.

Empire waists are not particularly flattering on my figure, so I altered the pattern to add a seam at my natural waist. To do this, cut the skirt straight across the natural waistline (easy to find because it's already marked on the pattern piece), add seam allowances, then follow the directions for the elastic casing. I also added 3" to the skirt length.

Fabric is soft pale pink rayon jersey from the old Denver Fabrics (before they merged with Fashion Fabrics Club). To remedy the sheerness of the fabric, I cut two of every piece, then basted them together along the edges and treated the two layers as one.

I made my usual size 8. The underbust seam sits very high on this pattern; I recommend lowering it 5/8" or more, especially if you are over a B cup or have a mature figure.

The entire dress is sewn with a narrow zig zag stitch, with serged edges. The serging really isn't necessary except to clean up the edges. The skirt is finished with a serged rolled hem, which maintains the fluid drape of the fabric. I used a size 65 universal needle (these have a slightly rounded tip, you could also use a stretch or ball point needle) with cotton thread (cotton covered polyester is also suitable).

I entered the One Fabric - Knits contest on pattern review, check out the other entries and vote (August 1-10).

McCall 5484 - Knot Front Knit Dress

2008-06-19T00:20:00.012-05:00

McCall's 5484

Knits, I learned, as this was my first time working with one, are not to be feared. Me, on the other hand...

Positively ghostly ;)

Pattern review

I scrumped the hem a bit, so I think this will end up as a top...

Simplicity 3835 - Easy blouse

2008-06-18T02:46:00.009-05:00

This is an extremely simple raglan sleeve blouse from the Built by You pattern collection. Only three pattern pieces to cut out. If I make it again, I would eliminate the center back seam.

I made my usual size 8 out of a linen/poly blend print (from JoAnn fabrics, long ago) embellished with little pearls. I thought to remove the pearls but ended up kinda liking them.

This is a great pattern for beginners.

Project Runway Patterns - Who Knew?

2008-02-16T23:34:00.005-06:00

So, as I do reserve the right to change my mind (though I wouldn't go so far as to say I was "wrong"), Project Runway patterns turn out to be pretty cool. I picked up Simplicity 3538 while perusing patterns during on of those 5 for $5 sales at JoAnn Fabrics (my wallet is defenseless against anything with a rounded collar).

The pattern contains a great little bonus: a DIY croquis drawing with interchangeable style options to trace onto paper and experiment with (or scan and arrange in Photoshop, as I have).

Here's a few I put together for fun:

Vogue 8426- Pencil Skirt With Kick Pleats

2008-01-20T21:27:00.004-06:00

A belated holiday gift for my boyfriend's mom:

Vogue 8426

Thankfully, and after much worrying and second-guessing, it fits her perfectly. She said she feels pretty when she wears it and already asked for another skirt. It feels great to have a cheerleader, someone who really appreciates the work and care that goes into the making of a garment. Secret closet rummagings had to be done to learn about her tastes and size without ruining the surprise.

Likes: The pattern itself is so well-drafted. It goes together very quickly, minus the pleats in the back, which take some time to sew. I love the vertical seams and highlighted them with black topstitching. The shape really flatters the rump.

Dislikes: The hem instructions are either terrible or were omitted for the pleated view. I scratched my head over this for some time, but the way the pleats sit, the underlays really should be hemmed before insertion into the skirt back. Otherwise they just don't lay right after hemming.

The fabric is wool tweed, from fashionfabricsclub.com (no longer available). Same fabric as my Anthropolgie knock-off jacket. May have been a better choice to use something thinner because the seams got a bit bulky at the waist, especially with the belt loops.

This pattern has no lining, so I put a half lining in to allow for movement of the pleats in the lower back. Not sure how else to line a skirt with these types of pleats and it works just fine.

The waistband tapers too much for me (I'm straight up and down) but fine for someone with an hourglass frame. I made an 8 but took in 1/2" on each side at the waist to improve the fit. If I make this again for myself, I'd probably lob 1/2" of the top of the waistband so it sits a smidgen lower.

Review: Burda World of Fashion Magazine

2008-01-05T15:45:00.002-06:00

By far, my favorite source for unique patterns is Burda World of Fashion. The pages look more like a fashion magazine than a sewing publication. Each garment is styled in a complete outfit and often shown in more than one fabric for extra inspiration.

There are 30+ patterns in each month's issue, primarily misses' but some for children, petites, plus sizes, and occasionally mens. Annual subscriptions are $80 and are available stateside from GLP News.

Here are some designs from the magazine. Note the far right; there were visible nipples, but I covered them up for PG purposes. But, nipples! In a sewing magazine! That just screams fashion.

11/2007

12/2007

Below, side by side styles are the same patterns but in different fabrics:

12/2007

Likes: amazing designs; good fit; wide variety of styles, both classic and current trends; inspiring photographs; comes monthly; bargain price for the number of patterns; usually pretty clear instructions.

Dislikes: tracing out pattern pieces from a sheet with many patterns overlaid hurts my eyes; seam allowances are not included; sometimes disappointed to see something I like but find there's no pattern for it because it's RTW; plus size patterns included despite the existence of a separate publication, Burda Plus (perhaps I am missing the advantage though? I'm really just greedy for more patterns in my size).

Burda WoF 9/2007 Tulip Dress

2007-12-06T18:01:00.007-06:00

Burda World of Fashion 9-2007-117

Not too bad for a first try. I'm still having some fit issues; consequently the fabric is pulling in some places. Time to re-think this as a gift... Also think I could have used some stabilizer in the seams.

Edit: I figured out that the back horizontal seam needed some lift, so I pinched out about an inch (typical swayback adjustment) and voila, much much better.

I really like the fabric on this, probably best with nude underwear though.

Edit: I did consider using a lining with this, but I wanted to give the recipient a fun party dress (she wore it to LasVegas and looked fantastic in it). Since the dress is a little more conservative, I thought I would add a dash of risque by leaving it unlined.

One thing I learned through this project is that there is a difference between the zipper foot my machine came with and an invisible/concealed zipper foot. Who knew? An invisible zipper foot (shown right) has enclosed channels to feed the zipper teeth through. A regular zipper foot has a one-sided ridge to rest against the zipper teeth. I wondered why there was always zipper tape showing after inserting my zippers. The remedy, I found, save for ordering the correct foot, is to move the needle position closer to the zipper teeth (very carefully mind you, so as not to lower the needle on the foot itself) before sewing.

Burda WoF Tulip Dress

2007-11-29T23:05:00.001-06:00

In progress, this dress from the September 2007 issue of Burda World of Fashion:

A present for a friend, who asked me to make her a 'vintage style party dress with a pencil skirt... probably in black' just hours after I started making it. Eerie coincidence.

The fabric is a cotton (probably with some poly) floral burnout with dark grey screen printed flowers on top from Joann Fabrics circa spring '07-ish. It has pockets of sheerness that will make for a bit of sexiness (the final version will be unlined).

This Burda pattern bears a remarkable resemblance to Roland Mouret's moon dress:

Vogue 2958 - 1950s Style Dress

2007-11-24T15:25:00.002-06:00

(Version in the upper right)

Fabric is a mossy green cotton sateen from Joann Fabrics (on clearance!!!). I love working with sateen because it has the sewing ease of cotton combined with the light sheen of a more luxurious fabric (like dull satin or silk dupioni).

The pattern is straightforward and fairly easy to make. I had some difficulty with the bust area; it's tricky to match up the curved bust pieces properly without bubbling (a pretty rhinestone brooch can mask some of this). In hindsight, I really needed a muslin and full bust alteration, but this'll do.

Only the bodice is lined, which saved a whole lot of hemming. While hemming the self skirt, I kept thinking that I ran out of bobbin thread or something because the fabric kept coming and coming without stitches in it (the full skirt just takes a while to hem).

Inspiration: WWII Era Dresses

2007-07-23T22:30:00.001-05:00

I've recently been interested in 1930s and 40s American fashion. Check out this vintage Hollywood pattern I found (er, you know, bought):

I think the condition of the cover indicates that this pattern was really well-loved. Good news for me!

More inspiration, a modern take, this one is fall '06 (I think) Nanette Lepore:

Love this 1930s DuBarry jumper dress:

This month's Threads magazine has an article of interest, Working with Vintage Patterns, which features this lovely thirties era pattern:

Note the difference in style and fabric usage in the WWII era patterns above with the superfluous fabric in the 1950s pattern below:

Book Review: Pattern Magic

2007-07-22T00:46:00.003-05:00

Pattern Magic by Nakamichi Tomoko is far and above my favorite sewing book. It combines the not often joined together qualities of modern, inspiring design and practical, how-to information. Each of the sculptural designs is captured in beautifully simple photographs.

Unfortunately, the text is in Japanese, but the step-by-step drawings are decipherable enough to figure it out sans translator. There are no full-size patterns, but you can alter a self-drafted or store-bought basic pattern.

The designs are somewhat complicated, and though I haven't attempted anything just yet, I feel like just reading (or looking as the case may be) through it has vastly improved my understanding of how patterns can be manipulated to create varying effects.

I think what draws me in most is what many homemade clothiers are after: uniqueness not found in ready-made garments. These are the types of clothes that I would covet hanging in a museum, and I imagine myself feeling quite spectacular wearing one of these dresses.

Simple Mini Dresses

2007-07-02T15:27:00.000-05:00

Improvised easy mini dresses (blue is organic cotton, green is linen-blend):

Sidenote: it's July and I'm pale as a ghost; rock on summer '07!

Burda Style - Free Open Source Patterns

2007-07-02T15:13:00.000-05:00

I recently stumbled upon BurdaStyle.com, a new-ish site offering free sewing patterns, as well as a forum for sharing user-created patterns. The styles offered by the creators are so covetable:

You can print them at home, and they (mostly) are FREE!

Vogue 2837 - Oscar De La Renta Cocktail Dress

2007-05-19T20:14:00.003-05:00

I've made this once before, but last time I strayed from the pattern and it kind of turned out to be a boob-a-licious Judy Jetson dress:

My skills have improved since then so it's time for round two. This time it will be in a muted gray silk chiffon and have a gathered sunburst sort of thing on the front bodice. The best thing about this dress (which I omitted, foolishly, last time) is pockets! No purse necessary!

Here's the muslin test version, proably will bring it up a bit in length as in the right photo:

Disaster strikes! This one will be on the back-burner for a while...

McCall 5388 - Bubble Blouse

2007-04-08T23:40:00.003-05:00

Edit:
I sized down to a size 6 from my normal size 8 (I usually wear a size 2 or 4 in RTW) because this top has a lot of volume. The fabric (from JoAnn fabrics, long ago) is a finely woven cotton voile, which needed two layers for opaqueness. The nice draped effect would be lost on a heavier weight fabric; even quilting cotton would be too stiff, I think. The only drawback is needing to steam the wrinkles out every time I wash it. I added a narrow drawstring casing in the hem to rope in some of the volume. Otherwise, this pattern fit me great without any alterations.

Simple and spring-like.

Burda 7944 - High Waisted Trousers

2007-03-05T22:21:00.002-06:00

I never thought I'd be making a pair of high-waisted trousers, but here I go...

In progress... the muslin came out really high. A little too Veronica Corningstone for my liking. Hmmmm...

Simplicity 3835 - Built By You Dress

2007-02-16T00:02:00.005-06:00

Finished, voila!

Simplicity 3835

Almost finished with my version, a birthday present for a special lady. Hopefully this won't end up being a "great, just what I always never wanted" gifts.

Now for the age old question regarding the length: to mini or micro-mini?

Simplicity 3966 - Built by You Jacket

2007-02-02T17:48:00.007-06:00

Simplicity 3966

This pattern is very straightforward, though plaids can be a pain to line up. I made one size smaller than I usually wear because the style is a bit boxy (this is a size 6). The fabric is a medium weight cotton "Buffalo plaid" with quilted cotton lining in the body and quilting cotton lining in the arms (to reduce bulk there).

I really like the high collar and the flaps/flanges across the chest and back. It's warm but certainly isn't doing my figure any favors.

Hot Patterns La Rue Free Handbag Pattern

2007-01-12T18:26:00.008-06:00

This bag is a knock-off of the Patricia Field bag that was featured in the movie "The Devil Wears Prada." The original is made of PVC (and is expensive for plastic), so this DIY pattern is much more appealing. My version is made from vintage leather bought on eBay. Simple, utilitarian, and modern.

It was fairly easy to put together, although I couldn't get it to print out with the proper dimensions. The armhole binding is a bit tricky, though it helped that I used brown velvet instead of leather.

9/21/09: This pattern is no longer available as a free download, but you can order a paper copy from Hot Patterns right here.

Simplicity 4112 - Built By You Buttondown

2007-01-12T18:22:00.003-06:00

One of my favorite designers, Wendy Mullin of Built by Wendy, released a series of patterns in 2006. This simple button-front shirt is one of my favorite patterns ever. Super easy, I can almost do it in my sleep.

Anthropologie Portrait Jacket Knock-off

2006-12-02T13:26:00.001-06:00

I had my eye on this jacket from Anthropologie but couldn't see spending $248 on it, especially after seeing it in-store and feeling the burlap-like fabric:

So I drafted a pattern and whipped up my own version out of soft wool tweed:

Edit: Vogue Patterns just came out with a pattern that is very similar, V8354.

Vogue 8280- Mouret Inspired Dress

2006-11-06T21:43:00.001-06:00

The Mouret is taking shape. If it's anything like my previous projects, I should quit now and start something new.

So close to finished, yet so much left to do:

Crossing my fingers it turns out like this:

Here it is finished:

I took it in quite a bit in the hips and bottom. It looks a lot better, but the downside is that it is too tight to walk normally or use the toilet without taking it completely off. Even better is that it is difficult to unzip on my own. You can imagine the sort of scenario I found myself in the first time wearing this out at a bar with three dudes.

Kermit the Frog Costume

2006-10-18T21:09:00.003-05:00

Body: Simplicity pattern 4011, size Medium, zips in front for easy removal. Added light green triangles around neckline.

Head: Inserted a plastic colander with the handles cut off into a modified hood with zipper in the back for easy on/off. A little tricky to get the fabric to stretch evenly over the colander, sewed through holes in colander to secure. Cut one styrofoam ball in half for the eyes and covered them in white t-shirt fabric, then glued on black felt pupils.

Hands and Feet: The gloves were modified (i.e., made larger) from Vogue pattern 7949. Feet were improvised with green fleece, pipe cleaners around the edges for shape, and clear elastic around the ankles.

Miss Piggy Costume

2006-10-18T21:09:00.002-05:00

Dress: Lilac satin with slit from Vogue 2481, very quick and easy to sew, sort of rushed, but turned out just fine.
Ears: Pink felt, quilt batting, pipecleaners for shape, attached to plastic headband for shape.
Nose: Covered a plastic nose in pink fleece to match the ears. Tried glueing it to my face with spirit gum; mission not accomplished. Functionally, clear swimwear elastic was best and was barely visible.
Eyes: For added recognizability, painted flirty Miss Piggy eyes onto craft foam and taped to a bamboo skewer.
Gloves: pink velvet gloves, a la Vogue 7949. Sort of tricky, but helps if the fabric has s-t-r-e-t-c-h.
Shoes: Covered an old pair of shoes in fabric glue (which remains flexible when dry) and silver glitter.
Jewelry: Made a pearl necklace and bracelet with glass pearls, bought a big purple CZ ring, all from Rio Grande.

Testing Testing

2006-10-17T17:12:00.000-05:00

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